Production of textile threads and fabrics



Patented Jan. 9, 1940 UNITED STATES PRODUCTION or 'rsx'rma THREADS AND m mics William Whitehead, Cumberland, Md., minor to Celanese Corporation of America, a oorpo- I I ration of Delaware No Drawing.

\ 20 Claims.

invention relates to the manufacture of crepe threads of organic derivatives of cellulose and to the production therefrom of fabrics exhibiting crepe effects.

An object of this invention is the economic and expeditious production of yarns or threads containing organic derivatives of cellulose which have a high degree of twist and which are suitable for the production of crepe fabrics.

Another object of this invention is'the treatment of filaments, yarns or threads of organic derivatives of cellulose and the insertion in the yarns or threads of a high degree of twist in such a manner as to produce fabrics exhibiting umform crepe effects.

A further object of this invention is the production of crepe yarns or threads which shrink and buckle in a very short period'of time when treated in a creping bath.

Other objects of this invention will appear from the following detailed description and the appended claims.

Textile materials exhibiting crepe effects have long been obtained by employing in their construction highly twisted yarns or threads made of natural silk in the gummed state, the crepe effects appearing when the materials are given a suitable scouring or like treatment. Crepe eflects are, however, obtained only with difiiculty by the employment of highly twisted crepe yarns or threads made of certain other materials, especially degummed silk and artificial filaments.

I have now found that, filaments, yarns or threads of organic derivatives of cellulose having incorporated therein a resin, particularly a water-insoluble resin, and which are highly twisted, especially in the presenceof hot aqueous fluids such as steam or hot water, constitute particularly valuable products in that they may be employed with highly satisfactory results for the manufacture of fabrics exhibiting crepe eflects. Thus, by treating in an aqueous scouring bath fabrics woven from or containing yarns or threads of organic derivatives of cellulose, impregnated or coatedwith a water-insoluble resin, crepe effects comparable with or even superior to those ob-' 50 yams or threads of any organic derivative of cellulose may be employed in the manufacture of the new crepe threads, for example, filaments. yarns of threads containing cellulose esters, such as cellulosaformate, cellulose acetate, cellulose butyrate and cellulose propionate, and cellulose Application September 10, 1938,

Serial No. 229,329

ethers such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and benzyl cellulose. The invention, however, is

- In carrying out this invention any appropriate means may be employed for applying the resin to the filaments, yarns or threads. For example,

the resin may be added to the spinning solution or dope.from which the filaments constituting the yarns or threads are formed. I prefer, however, to apply the resin to the filaments, yarns or threads while they are travelling by passing them in contact with rollers, rods, pads or other devices supplied or impregnatedwith the resin, or by dipping the materials in the form of hanks in a bath containing the resin. In my preferred form of applying. the resin to the materials, the resin is applied thereto in the form of an emulsion in water with a sulphated fatty alcohol as the emulsifying agent.

By incorporating the emulsion of the methyl methacrylate or other alkyl methacrylate resin in the filaments, yarns or threads of cellulose acetate it has been found possible to produce crepe yarns or threads which yield fabrics exhibiting crepe effects of an excellence heretofore unattainable with ordinary 'cellulose acetate crepe threads. Moreover, by the process of this invention there are produced cellulose acetate crepe yarns or 'threads which have an average strength much greater than that of cellulose acetate crepe yarns or threads produced by a simple twisting operation, without the presence of hot aqueous fluid.

Furthermore, apart from the great advantage of a strong resultant yarn or thread, the twisting operation in the presence of the hot aqueous fluid is greatly facilitated in that the twisting maybe satisfactorily accomplished under conditions iii twist and spindle speed which, in the absence of I resin, would give rise to frequent thread breakage and render impossible the insertion of the desired high twist, or at least lead to a very weak and commercially useless thread. By employing the methyl methacrylate or other alkyl meth- -acrylate resin there is produced a more uniform and a quicker action of the hot aqueous fluid upon the yarn or thread being tw'lted. The application of the emulsion of the resin to the filaments, yarns or threads of cellulose acetate not only produces crepe yarns or threads of enhanced properties for textile operations afid more uniform crepe pebble in the fabric, but also increases the speed and the degree of shrinkage in the boil-ofi or creping bath. This is especially true when the methyl methacrylate resin is employed.

The emulsion preferably employed in accordance with this invention contains about 30% by weight of methyl methacrylate resin in water with 5% by weight of a sulphated fatty alcohol as the emulsifying agent. In the term "sulphated fatty alcohol are included fatty alcohols which contain a sulphuric acid group and fatty alcohol esters of sulphuric acid. The amount of this emulsion to be applied to the filaments, yarns or threads of cellulose acetate is such that 5% of the resin, based on the weight of the cellulose acetate, is retained thereon.

As stated above the resin coated or impregnated filaments, yarns or threads are twisted in the presence of hot aqueous fluids such as steam or hot water. This twisting may be effected on a device of the kind in which the thread is drawn off over the head of a rotating package through a guide fixed substantially in line with the axis of rotation of the package and is thereafter wound on a bobbin or the like, the thread being passed through hot aqueous fluid on its way from the guide to the bobbin. In this way the yarn is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid during the actual application of twist. The twisting spindle, the guide fixed in line with the axis of the spindle and the device for applying the hot aqueous fluid to the filaments, yarns or threads should be so arranged that the twist resulting from the rotation of the package is at least partially inserted while the thread is in contact with the hot aqueous fluid.

Where steam is employed as the hot aqueous fluid, steaming may conveniently be effected by allowing the thread to pass through a suitable chamber supplied with steam, preferably under such conditions that moisture is present. The chamber is provided with small holes, top and bottom, to permit-passage of the thread, and also with a steam inlet. If desired, a single steam chamber may be arranged to serve a number of twisting devices, being provided with inlet and outlet holes for the thread of each twisting device. Such an apparatus may conveniently consist of a horizontal pipe mounted over a row of twisting devices and provided with eyes of porce-- lain, stainless steel, or other suitable material at appropriate points on top and bottom for the entrance and exit of the threads. The diameter of the pipe should be such as to aflord the thread the requisite length of travel in the steam. Al-

,ternatively, a pipe having a smaller diameter may be used, in which case the pipe may be provided with'hollow nipples communicating therewith and through which the yarn passes, thenipples being of s'uflicient length to provide, together with the diameter of the pipsptme requisite length of travel in the steam.

The presence of the desired moisture may be assured by supplying wet steam to the steaming device and/or by arranging for the condensation of steam to supply the requisite amount of moisture. Wet steam may be conveniently produced by passing steam through water at suitable velocity. For instancasmall traps for condensed water may be provided at suitable intervals in the steaming chamber and steam inJected therethrough by means of small pipes or orifices. Another method of insuring the presence of moisture is to wet the thread with water. For example, the bobbins of thread may be wetted before the twisting operation or, better, water may be applied to the thread by means of a wick or other device after the thread leaves the spindle and prior to its entering the steaming device.

Steam at slightly above atmospheric pressure, or at a pressure of 1 to 2 centimeters of water, is most conveniently employed. If desired, however, the steaming may be effected with steam at any desired super-atmospheric pressures, e. g., steam at 10 to 25 lbs. per square inch.

A steaming treatment of relatively short duration, such as may be secured by causing the yarn to 'pass through steam in a path of about 1 to 6 inches at a speed of from 2 to 10 meters per minute has been found to give satisfactory results. Longer treatments may, however, be employed. For example, the yarn may be passed at the said speeds through 6 inches to 12 inches or more of steam.

The treatment of the thread with hot water during twisting may be effected by drawing the thread off from a twisting spindle and passing it upwardly through a small hole in a suitable receptacle containing hot water, the thread then passing to a winding device. The hole may be, for example, about a; of an inch in diameter and may be provided with means adapted to lead away and prevent from reaching the twisting spindle any liquid issuing fromthe hole. If desired, the hole may take the form of a short tube of fine bore, fixed in the receptacle, whereby the fiow of liquid from the receptacle at the point of entrance of the thread may be reduced.

The duration of the treatment with hot water may be relatively short, such as may be secured when the thread is travelling at a speed of 2 to 10 meters per minute and is in contact with hot water for 1 to 3 inches of its travel. More prolonged treatments may, however, be employed.

Very good results may be obtained by using hot water at temperatures of to 100 C. Preferably the water should be as hot as possible and temp'eraturesjof, for instance, to C. are to be recommended. If desired, the hot water may be employed under pressure, for example 2 to 10 or 15 pounds or more per square inch. The use of pressure enables the water to be employed at higher temperatures than is possible under atmospheric pressure. By using pressure, therefore, the temperature of the watermay be above 100 C. and to the boiling point thereof at the pressure employed. Water may be employed under pressure, however, when the temperature is below 100 C.

' The crepe twisting may be applied in a single stage. If desired, however, the crepe twist may be applied in two or more stages, at least the final stage of twisting being effected while treating the thread with hot-aqueous fluid.

When the crepe twist is applied in two or more stages theadvantages of the process may be obtained when not only-the final stage of the crepe twisting but the earlier stage or stages of twisting are also eifected while treating the thread with hot aqueous fluid. In fact, it is of great advantage to effect, while treating the thread with hot aqueous fluid, any application of twist beyond the point at which twisting would result in weakening of the thread if vtne said twisting aieaouc wholly or in of other materials, e. g., natment.

The total twist applied in accordance with the process of the present invention may vary within wide limits, and the crepe figure in the fabric may be regulated according to I requirements. The total twist desirable in any particular case depends upon a number of factors, including the precise effects required, the number of filaments, and the denier of the thread. For example, with threads of 150 denier twists of about 70 to '75 or more turns per'inch are desirable, and with 100 denier threads twists of about 85 to 90 turns per inch. With these indications it is a simple matter to determine the desirable twists for threads of other deniers.

When the crepe twist is applied in two or more stages the twist may be divided between the twisting stages in various proportions. Twist applied in the absence of the hot aqueous fluid treatment should not be of such degree as to damage the thread. To this end, as indicated previously, twisting withoutthe hot aqueous fluid were efiected without the hot aqueous fluid treattreatment should not be effected where the twist applied is suflicient to result in substantial weakening of the thread.

A particularly convenient method of working is to apply about one sixth to one quarter of the total crepe twist without the hot aqueous fluid treatment, say up to or to or even in some cases up to turns per inch, and then to complete the crepe twist whiletreating with hot aqueous fluid. I

By the process of the present invention highly twisted cellulose acetate crepe threads may be produced which are smooth and cylindrical in which the filaments are extremely closely packed.

For example, threads may be obtained which have an apparent'specific gravity, as determined from the diameter and denier, of more than 85%, e. g,, 85 to 90%, of the actual specific gravity of the filaments. As appears from microscopic examination of the cross-sections of threads twisted in accordance with the invention, the fllaments are squeezed together into substantially as close contact as possible, causing some distortion of at least some of them. The filaments, however, are not stuck together and can be separated upon untwisting.

While the process of this invention enables production of threads which yield satisfactory crepe effects without a special treatment, other than. the twisting and hot aqueous fluid treatment characteristic of the process, other devices and treatments may, if desired, be employed further toimprove the properties of the crepe threads and/or fabrics produced therefrom.

The highly twisted crepe threads may be incorporated inthe fabrics in variouslways, for example, the weft alone may be wholly or partially composed of such threads or the warp may also contain them. Valuable fabrics may be produced by employing warp threads of relatively low twist and in the weft both crepe threads having a left-hand twist and crepe threads havv ing a right-hand twist, pairs of threads of lefthand twist alternating with pairs of threads of right-hand twist.

If desired, the cellulose acetate crepe threads may be associated in the fabrics with highly twisted crepe threads of other materials, e. g. of natural silk or regenerated cellulose, or with highly twisted threads produced by otherprocesses. Where the fabrics contain threads of low twist these may be wholly of cellulose acetate or ural silk or regenerated cellulose.

Fabrics containing highly twisted crepe threads prepared in accordance with the inven- Example Hanks of 166 denier I40 filament yarn of 1 turn per inch are dipped in a bath containing about 30% of methyl methacrylate resin in water with 5% of a sulphated fatty alcohol as the emulsifying agent. The amount of this emulsion applied to the warn is such that 5% of the resin, based on the weight of the yarn, is applied thereto. The hanks are then removed from the bath, air dried, backwound and twisted-to turns per inch in the presence of steam. The twisted yarn is then woven as weft in a fabric and the fabric treated in a hot bath for 15 minutes at to C. and then for 2 hours at 98 to 100 C. The fabric produced has a heavy, crepe eifect, isexceptionally uniform inpebble and shrinkage and is strong.

It is to be understood that the foregoing detailed description is given merely by way of illustration and that many variations may be made therein without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having described my invention, what I desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises incorporating in the thread a resin, subjecting the thread to the action of a hot aqueous fluid and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while the thread is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid.

2. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe threadv of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises incorporating in the thread a resin, subjecting the thread to the action of a hot aqueous fluid and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while the thread is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid.

3. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises incorporating in the thread a water-insoluble resin, subject ing the thread to the action of a hot aqueous fluid and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while the thread is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid.

4. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises incorporating in the thread a water-insoluble resin, subjecting the thread to the action of a hot aqueous fluid and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while the thread is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid.

5. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises incorporating in the thread a resin comprising a. polymerized ester of substituted acrylic'acid, subjecting the thread to the action of a -hot aqueous fluid and crepe-twisting the thread of filaments while the tuted acrylic acid, subjecting the thread to theaction of a hot aqueous fluid and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while the thread is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid.

7. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of. filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises incorporating in the thread a resin comprising a polymerized alkyl ester of substituted acrylic acid, subjecting the thread to the action of a hot aqueous fluid and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while the thread is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid.

8. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises incorporating in the thread a resin comprising a polymerized alkyl ester of substituted acrylic acid, subjecting the thread to the action of a hot aqueous fluid and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while the thread is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid.

9. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises incorporating in the thread a resin comprising a polymerized alkyl methacrylate, subjecting the thread to the action of a hot aqueous fluid and crepe twisting the thread offllaments' while the thread is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid.

10. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises incorporating in the thread a resin comprising a polymerized alkyl methacrylate, subjecting the thread to the action of a hot aqueous fluid and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while the thread is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid.

11. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises incorporating in the thread a resin comprising a polymerized methyl methacrylate, subjecting the thread to the action or a hot aqueous fluid and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while the thread is subjected to the action of the hot aqueous fluid.

12. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of cellulose acetate,

which comprises incorporating in the thread a 15. Highly twisted crepe threads or filaments,

of an organic derivative ofcellulose having incorporated therewith a resin comprising a polymerized alkyl esterof substituted acrylic acid.

16. Highly twisted crepe threads of filaments of cellulose acetate having incorporated therewith a resin comprising a polymerized allgvl ester of substituted acrylic acid.

17. Highly twisted crepe threads of filaments ofi an organic'derivative of cellulose having incorporated therewith a resin comprising a polymerized alkyl methacrylate.

18. Highly twistedcrepe threads of filaments of cellulose acetate having incorporated therewith a resin comprising a polymerized alkyl methacrylate. I

19. Highly twisted crepe threads of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose having incorporated therewith a resin comprising a polymerized methyl methacrylate.

20. Highly twisted crepe threadsot filaments of cellulose acetate having incorporated therewith a resin comprising a polymerized methyl methacrylate. r,

. WILLIAM WHITEHEAD. 

